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How to Choose the Correct Underlay for Your Machine Embroidery Project [And Why It Is Important]

Updated: Dec 21, 2023

When diving into the world of embroidery digitization, choosing the right underlay is like laying a solid foundation for your home. It sets the stage for your design to shine. In this post, I will discuss the different types of underlays and why choosing the right type is essential to creating a flawless final product. So, let's unravel the mystery behind different types of underlay in machine embroidery digitization!


First off, think of underlay as the unsung hero — it's the groundwork that supports your stitches and keeps everything in place. There are mainly three types of embroidery underlay: running stitch, zigzag stitch, and fill stitch (or tatami).


Running Stitch Underlay

Running stitch underlay is like the backbone of your embroidery. It's simple yet effective, consisting of straight stitches running under your design. This type of underlay helps stabilize the fabric and prevents it from puckering while providing a base for subsequent stitches. Running stitches can run underneath the edge of your objects, or down the center. Running under the edge creates a rollover edge for your lettering or object. Running down the center is used when you have a very narrow letter or column that is less than 1.5mm wide.


Zigzag Stitch Underlay

Zigzag stitch underlay is a bit more intricate. Picture a zigzag pattern crisscrossing beneath your design. This technique is excellent for complex designs or fabrics prone to shifting, like knits or stretchy materials. It adds extra stability and helps maintain the shape of your embroidery. You can increase the density of your zig zag underlay to give your top-stitching a puff or rounded appearance.


Fill Stitch

Fill stitch underlay (or tatami underlay) is all about, well, filling! It involves a solid pattern of stitches beneath your design, almost like coloring inside the lines before adding the details. It is a low-density fill-stich below your design. This type of underlay works wonders for larger, more intricate designs, ensuring a smooth surface for your final stitches.


In the video below, I have created a series of satin columns in different widths. The first column is 1mm wide, the second is 2mm wide, and the third is 3mm wide. You can see that all three of these columns get a center-run stich for the underlay. They are narrow columns, so they do not require much stability. But, when the width of the column moves to 4mm and wider, the Hatch 3 software automatically adds an edge run AND a zig zag.




Underlay is not a one-size-fits-all scenario. Different fabrics call for different underlay techniques. For example, if you're working on a delicate fabric like chiffon or satin, a lighter underlay might be the way to go to avoid any puckering or distortion. On the flip side, denser fabrics like denim or canvas might benefit from a stronger, more robust underlay to anchor your design firmly.


And let's not forget about the design itself! Intricate, detailed designs might require a combination of underlay types to ensure that every tiny detail comes out crisp and clear. Think of it like layering clothing for different weather — it's all about finding that perfect balance.


Very few designs or letters (even small ones) require no underlay at all. Of course, there are exceptions to this rule. If you are working on a very lightweight, delicate fabric, such as satin, and you are stitching tone on tone, you may not want any underlay because you may see the stitches through the design. Also, if the garment isn't likly to be washed often, such as a wedding gown or christening gown, this is a situation where underlay may not be necessary. But, be careful that your stitch lengths are not too long, as it could cause the fabric to pucker.


Now, the beauty of embroidery digitization is the flexibility it offers. Most digitizing software allows you to play around with underlay types, adjusting stitch lengths, densities, and angles. It's like being a scientist in a lab, experimenting until you find the ideal combination for your design and fabric combination.


Remember, practice makes perfect! Don't be afraid to test out different underlay techniques on scraps of fabric before diving into your main project. It's a fantastic way to get a feel for how different underlays interact with various fabrics and designs.


So, there you have it — a glimpse into the world of underlay in embroidery digitization! Play around, experiment, and find the underlay that makes your designs pop and your stitches sing.


Happy stitching!



Beth



Beth Gracie



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